The Frugal Foodies are in Mexico! For each new place, I’ll give a rundown of where we stayed, what we did, and what we ate. Check out my review of Puebla, our previous stop, HERE.
Oaxaca City is a thriving tourist destination with something for everyone. History buffs can explore Monte Alban. Nature lovers can go on hikes. Art fiends can admire the galleries and street art. Foodies can enjoy street food and fine dining alike.
We spent 4 days in Oaxaca City, and here’s the rundown of where we stayed, what we did, and what we ate.
Initial Impression:
COVID who?! The first thing that struck me about Oaxaca City was the sheer number of travelers. There were families, older couples, and a baffling number of young backpackers from Europe and the United States. It was the most English I have heard and encountered since arriving in Mexico, which I was not expecting.
The city itself is like a series of presents you need to discover and unwrap. There are food markets packed with locals. Food markets packed with tourists. Fancy artsy sections lined with galleries. Rugged artsy sections lined with street art. Grungy sections lined with street food. Pristine sections lined with bars and restaurants.
Each pocket has something exciting to discover. And I enjoyed the constant thrill of stumbling upon something new and wonderful.
The city was over all clean, I felt very safe, and given its beauty, art, and food, I get why Oaxaca City has become a hot travel destination.
Where We Stayed:
We stayed at Hotel Suites del Centro for our 4 days in Oaxaca City, which turned out to be quite a pleasant surprise. Our room had a kitchenette, a separate bedroom, a separate bathroom, and even a day bed. The staff were friendly and the room was quiet. Plus, we were just a 5 minute walk away from the main square.
Things to Do:
Explore the Markets: Food makes up the heartbeat of Oaxaca City, and there’s no better way to truly feel it than to explore the markets. While there are plenty of markets, Mercado 20 de Noviembre and Mercado Benito Juárez are two that shouldn’t be missed.
Walk Through the Colorful Neighborhoods: Barrio de Jalatlaco and Barrio de Xochimilco have unique galleries and impressive street art. Both are perfect for getting lost on a beautiful day.
People Watch at Plaza de la Constitución: This main square is beautifully hectic. There are dozens of restaurants, locals selling souvenirs, tour companies drumming up business, kids playing, kids trying to sell you things, musicians performing, and tourists taking it all in.
TIP: Uber isn’t in Oaxaca City, meaning you’ll have to take cabs. Said cabs have no meters. Be sure to agree on a fare ahead of time, and definitely bargain!
Day Trip to Monte Albán: The Zapotec people began building Monte Albán in 6th century BC, making it one of the earliest cities in Mesoamerica. It served as the most important socioeconomic hub of the region for centuries, and no trip to Oaxaca is complete without exploring the ruins.
TIP: While we went via taxi, I’d recommend taking a guided tour! We thought there would be tour guides for hire once we got there. But alas, there weren’t.
What We Ate:
The state of Oaxaca has a unique biodiversity with vibrant spices and crops you won’t find in other parts of Mexico. Indigenous groups began cooking with these ingredients centuries ago, and many are believed to have useful health, healing, and medicinal purposes.
While there are markets and street food stalls serving up authentic street eats, we prioritized sit down venues with menus featuring fresh, local ingredients.
Be sure to check out my guide on 6 Dishes in Oaxaca City before reading on to get more info!
Mercado 20 de Noviembre: After a couple laps, we settled on a popular stall and ordered a tlayuda and memelas. The tlayuda was loaded with 3 types of meat as well as a healthy sprinkle of chapulines (grasshoppers). And the memelas were topped with refried beans, cheese, and chicken. While I was happy to try the traditional dishes, my stomach wasn’t thrilled afterwards…
Hierbe Dulce: This is the only 100% vegan spot in Oaxaca City, and it’s the perfect place to enjoy classic dishes without the animal products. We had the guacamole, mushroom soup, mushroom tacos, and enchiladas. The mushroom soup was the star (although I didn’t take any photos…)—a lovely, earthy mushroom flavor with a punch of lime and tickle of mint.
Santa Hierba Centro: From salads to bowls, this is a must try spot for loading up on veggies and protein that doesn’t come from red meat.
Casa Taviche: For lighter Mexican food without the lard and grease, check out Casa Taviche. From mole negro to tamales, this is the perfect place to enjoy classic Oaxacan dishes without breaking the bank (or having a heart attack.)
Final Thoughts on Our 4 Days in Oaxaca City
The food and history were all well and good. But what I really loved about Oaxaca City was the vibrant arts scene. There were countless galleries, little artisan markets nestled around every corner, and breathtaking street art. Seeing interesting art sparks my imagination and gets my creative juices flowing. While I haven’t danced in a long time, being around such creativity has me itching to move again.
The bar for Oaxaca City was set high. And I will say, it met expectations.
