Jeremy and I are traveling around Europe for 6 weeks. So far we’ve spend 2 nights in Milan, 3 nights in Budapest, and 1 night in Gyor. The next destination is Bratislava, Slovakia!
Slovakia is a land locked country in central Europe that, like other countries in the region, has had a tumultuous history.
The Slavs arrived to the area in the 5th and 6th centuries. They were taken over the the Avar Khaghanate, which disolved into the Principality of Moravia, which was integrated into the Kingdom of Hungary, which was taken over by the Mongols. The area was then part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire before the state of Czechoslovakia was formed just after World War 1. During WWII, the fascist party rose, and the area became a client state of Nazi Germany. Once WWII was over, Czechoslovakia joined the Eastern Bloc. While it was never officially part of the Soviet Union, it served as a satellite state. Communism ended in 1989 with the Velvet Revolution, and Slovakia became an independent country in 1993.
In short: Slovakia has been through a lot. Like Hungary, you could spend years reading about the history of Slovakia. If you want more than a paragraph summary, check out THIS and THIS.
Bratislava is the capital city of Slovakia. It has been shaped by the Czechs, Germans, Hungarians, Jews, Slovaks, Austrians, and Bulgarians over the centuries. All these influences have molded the city into something totally unique and beautiful.
Let’s dive into our 48 hours in Bratislava!
Initial Impression
The old town in Bratislava makes me believe that fairy tales exist. Eclectically cobblestoned roads are lined with bakeries, cafes, eateries and shops. There are charming squares with life bustling to the sound of live music. Impressive, yet modest churches are sprinkled here and there. Remnants of a towering wall around the perimeter still remains, and no cars are allowed inside. Each building boasts something unique—an interesting color here, impressive door there, and plenty of intricate carvings. But there are a handful of dilapidated homes with boarded up windows. The perfect hiding places for the villains of our fairy tale to lurk. The cherry on top is an imposing castle sitting atop a hill.
The imposing voices of loud tourists cut through the fairy tale fantasy. Old Town Bratislava is magical, but not real. It’s a lovely snapshot of an idyllic past, but it’s not how local Slovakians live today.
But as we wandered into other neighborhoods, the joy and lightness from the Old Town remained. People seemed relaxed and kind—stark opposites of the hard edged Hungarians we encountered in Budapest.
I got the feel that Slovakians in Bratislava live well. What solidified that thought was the abundance of plant shops.
Let me explain….
House plants are a small luxury. One must have a little extra income to add them to a living space. And someone who chooses to buy houseplants likely values their space, has enough free time to relax at home, and has the energy to help something grow.
In short, Bratislava is pretty darn nice.
Where We Stayed
As a wedding gift, my Aunt Carol got us a Ritz Carleton gift card that can be used at Marriott chain hotels. We used it for two night at the AC Hotel, and it was glorious.
We had a big room with blazing AC, a mini fridge, and a Nespresso machine. The hotel had a gym and impressive lobby, and the locale right outside the old town was ideal. Plus, it was right across from a grocery store, which made it easy to get yogurt, water, and snacks.
What We Did, and What You Should Do Too!
Bratislava is fairly small and easy to navigate, and you can see most the highlights in a day and a half. Here are things that shouldn’t be missed.
Wander Around the Old Town
The old town is charming and quaint. Meander through the back streets and get lost. There are quirky things to see everywhere.
Tip: Be sure to keep an eye out for the bronze statues of people everywhere!
Visit the Bratislava Castle
Initial construction of the Bratislava Castle began in the 9th century, and it has housed famous leaders and priceless treasures through the centuries. (Learn more HERE!) Today, it’s home to a Baroque garden, the treasury (entry fee required), and stunning grounds that are free to stroll at your own leisure.
Walk Across the Bridge and Along the Danube
Bratislava sits along the Danube river, and who doesn’t love a sensible river stroll? Walk across the longest bridge in the city called the “Most SNP” by some, the New Bridge by locals, and the UFO Bridge by others due to the flying saucer structure that serves as an observation deck. On the other side, you’ll find a nice park and even a big mall.
Visit the Miletičova Marketplace
Old Town Bratislava is beautiful, but doesn’t necessarily reflect how present day Slovakians live. We left the Old Town and wandered through the various neighborhoods over to Miletičova Marketplace. It’s a fairly large local market where people sell fruits and vegetables, clothes and knick knacks, cheeses, and ready-to-eat food.
There were a surprising number of spots serving up Vietnamese and Chinese food, a Kebab shop, a falafel spot, and a couple traditional Slovakian spots. We saw a rotisserie chicken stall and decided some solid protein (that wasn’t drenched in sour cream) sounded delightful.
Google translate was needed to get over the language barrier, but we ended up with half a chicken, some pickles, and two slices of bread. And it was incredibly.
Walking to and around the Miletičova Marketplace was my favorite thing we did during our 48 hours in Bratislava.
What We Ate During Our 48 Hours in Bratislava
I had never had Slovakian food before visiting Bratislava. Like Hungary, the cuisine is based around potatoes and wheat. It’s quite heavy, so, as per usual, we started out each day getting yogurt and fruit from a grocery store. But of course we tried some local eats.
Bratislava Roll
Bratislava has no shortage of baked treats, but the Bratislavské rožky is one that shouldn’t be missed. It’s a traditional sweet pastry that dates back to 1599. The dough is made with a significant amount of butter, and it has a texture that’s sturdy, yet soft, with a rich flavor. They are traditionally filled with poppy seeds or nuts, and it was one of my favorite treats during our 48 hours in Bratislava!
Beer
No matter what time of day you walk through the old town, you’ll see people sitting outside with a cold beer in hand. There are countless pubs and you can snag beers for under 3€. We went to a corner spot that had a 5 beer flight for 5€. I can’t say the beers were my favorite— I’m not a light beer gal. However, it was fun sitting outside and people watching.
A Cookie from Dorris Cookies
I was floored by how good this cookie was. It had a lovely pistachio flavor. The texture was chunky, but not dry, with a nice mouth feel. And the freeze dried raspberries added a zing of freshness.
Leberkäse Sandwich from Studňa
Leberkäse is a meatloaf of sorts made from beef, pork, and bacon. It’s light pink and squishy, and I imagine it’s what the offspring of meatloaf and baloney would taste like. You can get it in sandwich form from Studna. It comes with cheese, pickles, and mustard. I quite enjoyed the taste, but I admittedly got a bit icked out by the soft, slightly oozey pink lump of processed meat.
Dumplings
Dumplings are huge part of Slovakian cuisine. We stopped into a restaurant in the old town to get a dumpling sampler. It included sour cabbage dumplings, sheep cheese dumplings with bacon, and sheep cheese “pockets” (which are similar to pierogi.) They were all quite tasty, but the ones with sour cabbage were my favorite. The zing from the cabbage broke up the heaviness of the cream, and the bacon on top added a little crunch (Learn more about Slovak dumpling varieties HERE!)
Garlic Soup
Soups are quite popular in Slovakian cuisine, and garlic soup just so happens to be one of said soups. It’s rich and creamy with enough garlic to keep the vampires away. We pulled into a spot that served it in a bread bowl. Perhaps, this is where Panera found it’s bread bowl inspiration.
My Thoughts Take on Slovakian Food
Like Hungarian food, Slovakian food is quite simple, rich, and heavy. I found that most of the dishes were extremely salty. I enjoyed trying it out, but I can’t say I’ll be hunting down a local Slovakian restaurant in NYC.
Cost of Our 48 Hours in Slovakia
Hotel: Free!
Bus Ride from Gyor: $43.15
Food: $71.95USD
Groceries: Around $16.95
Attractions: None
Transport: $4
Total: $136.05
Final Thoughts on Bratislava
Bratislava was a lesson in expecting the unexpected. I thought it would be a bit hard-edged and gray like Budapest. But it was colorful, lively, and absurdly pleasant. 48 hours in Bratislava was perfect for seeing and doing all the things we were interested in, and a destination worthy of your travel bucket list.
