Africa Snapshot: Bargaining in Namibia

A tourist walking through a crafts market in Africa is like a lone zebra walking through a pride of lions.

The predators attack from all angles with hungry eyes in search of food to feed their family.

“Look over here!” “Nice items for you!” “I give you a good price!” “Hey where you from?” “What are you looking for?” “Look for free!”

Except you aren’t for dinner—that cash in your wallet is.

Bolting through with downcast eyes is the best way to ward off attacks. Perhaps channel your inner zebra and take a zigzag path. The chaotic pathway may throw off predators. Or you’ll look insane enough that no one will risk interacting.

Or stop. Browse. Interact. Have a chat. Who knows, maybe you’ll make some great memories- or at least walk away with a souvenir.

I recently visited Swakopmund, a German town in Namibia, and I had quite the bargaining market experience….

A little history: Captain Curt von Francois founded the town in 1892, and it was made the main harbor for the Imperial German colony. Like most African countries, Namibia went through tumultuous bouts of imperialism and war. Check out a detailed timeline HERE. Today, the German architecture of Swakopmund remains. There are German bakeries, restaurants, snacks, and people mixed in with indigenous Namibian culture.  (Note: Namibia gained independence in 1990. In 2004, Germany issued a formal apology for colonial era killings of tens of thousands of people. No monetary compensation was given. Shocker…)

The mini tour buses dropped the squad off in Swakopmund right at a local crafts market to kick off 2 hours of free time around the town.

Lion-like vendors were licking their lips as 32 old, gray, and slow zebras entered the pride.

These types of markets admittedly overwhelm me. But I was in desperate need of some souvenirs to bring home and I had some Namibian dollars to burn.

So I stopped, browsed, and made a core memory that I’ll carry with me when this adventure is over.

I was looking at the various wooden bowls, figures, and spoons. It took two seconds for the woman to pounce.“What do you want? I give you a good price.”  I pointed to the salad tossing spoons with cutely carved giraffe handles. She said, “240 NAD.” ($16USD). I charismatically threw up my hands in shock. Bargaining in Namibia is expected, and I knew that she probably paid less than $.50USD for the set.

I countered with 60 NAD*, explaining that I wasn’t like all the other zebras… I was young and worked on the boat (ish..)! Plus, 60 NAD was all I had. Which was in fact true. I had already bought a big bowl, which I wanted, and a beaded dung beetle, which I was suckered into, from other stalls.

*It’s important to remember that the cost of a drip coffee from Starbucks is more than what hundreds of thousands of people live on in a day. While bargaining in Namibia is part of the culture, perhaps don’t consider penny pitching if your cash reserves allow.

She charismatically threw up her hands too. “Ah no no no my friend!” She pointed to a small wooden spoon; “60 NAD for this!”  We look at each other and both broke out laughing in a mutual understanding that the offer was terrible.

We bantered back and forth. I was shocked (and impressed) that she didn’t budge. I wanted to give her my business, so I pointed at a small bowl—“what about this for 60NAD?” She happily agreed (a clear sign she got the good end of the bargain). Then proceeded to ask if I had anything from the US she could give to her two kids.

I dug through my backpack and pulled out a hair scrunchie adorned with crowns that I got from a bat mitzvah. “But what about my son?!”  I found a package of 10 Petra postcards and ripped off three. Thrilled is an understatement.

Other people who I had friendly banter with earlier in my shopping spree spied the postcards and came over.

They looked at the post cards and asked if that was where I lived. I explained that I lived in New York City, and that Petra was in Jordan. Everyone knew about NYC, I’m less certain if they knew what Petra was. The postcards were extremely subpar in quality– I paid $1USD for 10. But the lion-like vendors transformed into cuddly kittens in excitement as I handed them out.

One man, pictured above, told me to wait. He ran over to his stall and gave me a beaded gecko keychain in exchange for the postcard.

A friend in high school who recently passed made me a beaded gecko keychain that adorned my keyring until it practically disintegrated. The moment felt special.

Sometime the most memorable travel moments are the simplest. This day of bargaining in Namibia is an Africa Snapshot that will stay with me.

Hungry for more Africa Snapshots? Check out my reflections on moments in Zanzibar and Maputo.