Jeremy and I are on a European adventure for six weeks. We kicked off the trip with two nights in Milan. Then we hopped on a plane for stop 2: Budapest.
Budapest is the buzzing capital of Hungary. It was established in 1873 with the merger of three cities: Buda, Óbuda, and Pest. The area has had a tumultuous history.
It was inhabited by the Romans until the Huns swept in in the 5th century. Various nomadic tribes fought for land. Christians barreled in looking to control the discourse. The country endured the Ottomon wars, Mongol invasion, a few wars for independence, Austrian rule, WWI, Soviet occupation, and numerous revolutions. I’m sure there are entire college courses dedicated to the history of Hungary. And after just a bit of reading, I’m astounded Budapest is as intact and beautiful as it is.
Initial Impression
The architecture immediately caught my attention. Spires fill the sky, and the streets are peppered with ornate buildings adorned with statues and covered in detailed carvings. Many cobblestone roads in the downtown area are pedestrianized and lined with bright buildings, trees, and dozens of eateries offering al fresco dining.
Yet, there’s also a repressive grayness, and the decorative vibrancy feels hard-edged. Morose whispers from the Soviet-era still hang in the air. Life is moving forward and up, but the light behind the city’s eyes seem dim.
The people seem to have a similar hard edge. Friendly nods are few and far between. The men can’t keep their eyes to themselves.*
*I think it’s essential not to spare this detail in case there are any solo female travelers reading this blog. I’m under the impression that Hungarian culture is still very male-dominated, and the men stare at women far beyond what is comfortable. I was with Jeremy, so I don’t know if stares would have turned into words if I was alone. I never felt unsafe, but I also wouldn’t go out alone at night.
The dichotomy between beauty and harshness is fascinating. And it’s what I find thrilling about travel– the wonderment of discovering a totally new culture. There’s no doubt that each cranny of Budapest has a story to tell. So I eagerly pounded pavement for 2 days trying to learn as much as I could.
Where We Stayed for Our 3 Nights in Budapest
Our visit to Budapest just so happened to coincide with a Formula 1 race. Hotel prices were triple what they usually are. We ended up booking the cheapest option we could find, which just so happened to be a room in a boarding school that opens up as a hostel during off-season. I can’t say the stay was too pleasant. But it got the job done.
Read about it HERE!
What We Did (and What You Should Do Too!)
As per usual, we clocked major steppage during our 3 nights in Budapest. Here are my favorite things that shouldn’t be missed!
Marvel at the Parliament Building
The Hungarian Parliament building is a sight to see. It sits over the Danube River with 24 towers, hundreds of statues, and 691 rooms. We didn’t go inside, but 88 pounds of gold and 500,000 precious stones decorate the interior. It’s a sight to behold, and worth seeing from all angles in the daytime as well as at night as it lights up.
Visit the Shoes on the Danube
During WWII, the fascist Hungarian militia killed over 500,000 Hungarian Jews. They would line the people up along the Daube, and force them to take off their shoes before shooting them so the bodies fell into the water. This display memorializes the lives lost, and is a can’t miss when visiting Budapest.
Tip: Go early in the morning to avoid crowds.
Meander the Pedestrianized Streets
The streets in the main downtown area are charming. The buildings are interesting and there are dozens of venues. I loved putzing around, taking in the atmosphere and admiring the buildings. It’s refreshing to be in a major city where you can walk around with worrying about getting hit by a taxi. (NYC I’m talking about you…).
Walk Around the Jewish Quarter
The Jewish Quarter was a Budapest highlight for me. There are tons of vintage shops, eclectic boutiques, markets, and cute eateries. Be sure to visit one of the “ruin bars.” Ruin bars are old, destroyed buildings that have been transformed into bars. We wandered through Szimpla Kert and it was epically cool. I reckon it’s extradorinaiy for night life. But if you aren’t a partier, I recommend checking it in the morning or mid-afternoon before it gets full!
Visit the Central Market
The Central Market is a massive indoor market where you can get spices, meats, and knickknacks. The building is striking and it’s fun to look at all the Hungarian goods for sale. However, I wouldn’t recommend eating there. There are a handful of stalls on the second level, but the space is packed and everything is quite pricey.
Visit the House of Terror Museum
The House of Terror Museum has exhibits on what life was like during the communist and fascist regimes in Hungary. It’s in the building that was used by the Arrow Cross Party, which was the far right fascist party that wreaked havoc in Hungary. I found the videos of first hand accounts most impactful. And walking in the basement where they tortured and killed prisoners made me a touch queasy.
That night, we were eating dinner next to another couple, and it was a meal of coincidences. The man was Aussie. They got married just last month. And the woman’s grandfather was one of the only people who made it out of Terror House alive.
There’s quite a bit of controversy over the museum—not everyone agrees with how they portray Hungary as the victim. However, I find that interesting in of itself.
What We Didn’t Do (What We WOULD Have Done With a Bigger Budget)
Thermal baths in Budapest are a big deal. There are dozens of resort-like spas where you can pay entry for the day and enjoy. Another cool thing about Budapest is that there is an elaborate tunnel system under the city. There are tours through said tunnel, which I think would be fascinating.
What We Ate During Our 3 Nights in Budapest
Hungarian food is simple and hearty. There are lots of potato dishes, and everything seems to be served with a generous scoop of sour cream. We set out to try as many different local dishes as our stomach would allow.
Note that we did start every day with greek yogurt in our hostel to help save money and to get some nutrition in.
Nokeldi from Nokedlish
Nokeldi are a Hungarian dumpling/noodle that’s quite similar to German spatzle. We stumbled upon Nokedlish, which serves up the classic dish but with some twists. You get to pick your base, sauce, and topping, and we went with the nokeldi topped with a classic Hungarian sauce of sorts, a garlic sauce, beef, and fried chives. It reminded me of a loaded baked potato. Super tasty. But super heavy. I think hot sauce would have added a nice zing to lighten it up a bit.
Strudel from Strudel Garden Cafe and Bakery
Who doesn’t love a strudel? We wandered into Strudel Garden Cafe and Bakery and it was an utter delight. The dough was perfectly flakey and both the apple and sour cherry fillings were loaded with fruit. Adding a scoop of salted caramel gelato on the apple one is the pro move… just saying. Plus, the whole bill was $6.09 USD.
Chicken Paprikash (Paprika Chicken)
Paprika was brought to Hungary by the Ottomans in the 1600s, and it is widely used in Hungarian cuisine. (Get the full scoop on how paprika became so popular in THIS TimeOut article.) Chicken paprikash has been around for centuries, and it’s made with chicken, pork lard, tomatoes, bell peppers, chicken broth, sour cream, and whipping cream. (Get a recipe HERE).
Lángos from Lángos Pappi
Lángos is deep-fried flatbread that can be topped with anything from cheese and sour cream to cinnamon and sugar. It’s a popular street food today, but it’s story is quite interesting.
Up until the mid 1900s, bread was only baked once a week due to the costs of heating up large ovens to accomodate the large loaves. There would be leftover dough, and people would bake it in smaller ovens the following day. These pieces of bread became known as “langos”, which translates to flame.
During the communist regime, private households didn’t have access to flour. Which meant no more bread baking and no more langos. After the revolution in 1956, people started making a new type of langos in the market. But this type was deep friend.
It was cheap, calorically dense, and tasty– the perfect combination for people who needed to make it through the day.
Today, there are spots serving up langos everywhere. We got on with cheese, garlic sauce, and bacon. Like the nokeldi, it reminded me of eating a baked potato!
Chimney Cake (Kürtőskalács)
Chimney cakes are a simple, yet delicious Hungarian treat that you’ll see in many parts of central Europe. They are made of a sweetened yeast dough that’s wrapped around a spit, baked, then coated in melted butter and sugar. You can get them filled with gelato, coated in nuts, or just as is.
Tips for getting around Budapest
The subway system very easy and simple to use. BE SURE TO PAY FOR YOUR TICKET. For our final journey to the main train station, we didn’t get the ticket for a mere $1.40usd. Lo and behold, the station we ended up at had someone checking, and we got a big fat from of $35usd a person.
Total Cost for 3 Nights in Budapest
Hotel: $245USD
Food: $115.11USD
Groceries: Around $20USD
Attractions: $22.34
Fine: $67.03
Transportation: Around $20USD
Total: $422.85
Our 3 nights in Budapest were a total success!
Well… minus the accommodation and subway fine.
Next stop… Slovakia!
