Jeremy and I are bopping around Europe for 6 weeks. So far we’ve spent 2 nights in Milan, 3 nights in Budapest, 1 night in Gyor, 2 nights in Bratislava, 3 nights in Vienna, 3 nights in Prague, and 2 nights in Wroclaw. Next stop…. Krakow!
Krakow has arguably been the most important city to Poland throughout the country’s history. It has served as an economic and cultural hub of the region. But, like every country in central Europe, it has gone through its fair share of political turmoil and war.
It has faced Mongol invasions, various kingships, plenty of German attacks, Czech rule, the Swedish wars, Russian invasions, the Lithuanian-Polish Jagiellon dynasty, Austrian rule, Ottoman Rule… just to name a few phases of Krakow’s history. (Get more details HERE, HERE, and HERE.)
Krakow was also heavily involved in the WWII. It was occupied by the Germans, and the Auschwitz death camp was formed 70km outside the city. While the city itself didn’t endure too much destruction during the war, the impact of the horrors caused by the Nazis remains.
We spent 3 nights in Krakow, and here’s the rundown of where we stayed, what we did, and what we ate.
Where We Stayed for our 3 Nights in Krakow
We stayed in an AirBnB situated just outside the old town. You can see the listing HERE. It had a functioning kitchen, dysfunctional washing machine, and comfy enough bed. The big downside (apart from the washing machine) was that it was right across from a train, and the windows were not sound proof. And I thought the sidewalk gatherings on 150th in Manhattan were loud!
On the bright side, the location was fantastic. Right across from a big grocery store and a quick walk into the old town.
What We Did, and What You Should Do Too!
Rewatch Schindler’s List
Schindler’s List is a commitment, both time wise and emotionally. But if there was ever a time to rewatch it, this was it. While there are some big components of the film that critics say are incorrect, it painfully captures the brutality of the Nazis and terror Jewish people faced. Watching it the first night inspired us approach our time with a history-centric focus.
We tried to go to the Schindler Factory Museum, but it turned out we needed tickets ahead of time. The one that got away….
See the Chairs at Zgody Square
Zgody Square was the main square of the Jewish ghetto, and it’s where 1,000s of Jews were terrorized and killed. In 2005, an art installation of empty chairs was added to the square to memorialize the lives lost. The chairs are symbolic of all the furniture people had to get rid of, and all the lives that are no longer able to fill said chairs.
(Learn more about the Krakow ghetto HERE.)
Visit the Museum at Eagle Pharmacy
Eagle Pharmacy found itself smack dab in the middle the Nazi created Jewish ghetto. Polish owner, Tadeusz Pankiewicz, decided to stay to help. The pharmacy became an essential hub where people could get medications, food, and even falsified documents.
It’s been transformed into an interactive museum. Visitors can open drawers and pick up phones for information and first hand accounts of what life was like in the ghetto. There are facts on the horrible living conditions, the efforts to simply get food given the fact the daily food ration was a meager 300 calories per person, and the terrors people faced each and every day.
Visit Krakow’s Market Square
Krakow’s Market Square spreads out across 40,000 square feet. It’s where you’ll find the final remains of the 13th century town hall, and it’s lined with cafes, restaurants, and shops.
Take a Tour to Auschwitz-Birkenau
Going on an Auschwitz-Birkenau tour should be at the top of anyone’s Krakow list. Seeing the complex first hand and getting information from a local guide was incredibly impactful, and a travel experience that will stay with me. (Stay tuned for a write up on the experience itself).
What We Ate During out 3 Nights in Krakow
We stayed in an AirBnB, and we took advantage of the kitchen to make vegetable and protein-focused meals. Of course, we did have some eats out and about…..
Sausages from the Blue Nysa
It turned out our AirBnB was right across from one of the most famous kielbasa vans in Krakow. Around 7pm, the van pulls up, two men get a fire going, and they get dozens of kielbasas cooking. A kielbasa with a roll is 17 PLN/$4.34USD, and it is stellar. The sausage itself is mega juicy with a nice crispy casing that gives each bite a crunch. Cooking it over a fire gives it an added smoky flavor. A true treat!
Maczanka Krakowska from Andrus Food Truck
Maczanka Krakowska is a type of sandwich that’s filled with pulled pork or pork neck slices. It developed in the 19th century when people were simply looking for a way to use leftover meat and sauces. It’s a popular street food today, and you can get it at Andrus Food Truck.
We tried the “Boczek”, which had pulled pork, pickles, bacon, mustard, and onions. It was mega saucy and super loaded. Next time I’d try the Jalapeño because I think a little spice would take it up a notch.
Obwarzanek Krakowski
Obwarzanek is a braided, baked ring bread that’s sprinkled with salt, poppy seeds, or sesame seeds. Today, it’s a popular street food, and you’ll see carts everywhere selling them. But it began as a treat for royalty, and the first records of it can be traced back to 1394.
The story of obwarzanek took a turn in the late 15th century. King John Albert granted the bakers’ guild in Krakow a monopoly on white bread baking, which included Obwarzanek. They only allowed it to be baked during Lent, and only by selected bakers. This decree effectively banned Jewish people from baking, and it was part of a larger movement to promote Christianity while ousting the Jewish population.
Fast forward to the 17th century– King Sobieksi ignored this degree, and Jewish bakeries were allowed to open once more.
Obwarzanek continued to be baked and loved through the centuries. In fact, some argue that they are even a precursor to the New York bagel. (Get my investigative work on the history of the NY bagel HERE.)
Of course I had to get one, and I’m here to report that it tasted exactly like bread.
Total Cost of Our 3 Nights in Krakow
Hotel: $213USD
Bus Ride from Wroclaw: $24.88USD
Food: $27.97USD
Groceries: $57.85USD
Attractions: $187.54 USD
Transport: None
Total: $569.09USD
Final thoughts on 3 days in Krakow….
Reading about history is one thing. Experiencing it is another. Seeing Auschwitz and walking around the Jewish ghetto were impactful experiences that I’ll remember for years to come.
