When it comes to “must-dos” in northern Vietnam, the Ha Giang Loop takes the cake. It’s a 384km loop in the Ha Giang province that connects remote ethnic villages with a narrow, winding road etched into towering mountains and through lush valleys. Jeremy and I booked a 4 day/4 night motorbike tour with Ha Giang Epic Tour, and it was one of those once-in-a-lifetime journeys that’ll grace my “favorite travel experiences of all time” list. (THIS is the exact tour!)
It had it all. Adventure, culture, nature, a tinge of danger, and that exhilarating feeling of experiencing something totally unique. Every kilometer of the journey came with something fascinating or beautiful to see, and it’s an experience worthy of any traveler’s bucket list.
Setting the Scene: A Brief History of the Ha Giang Loop
Ha Giang is the northernmost province in Vietnam that’s earned the title “Vietnam’s Final Frontier.” It’s home to 16 distinct ethic groups who each have their own language, traditions, and subgroups, and the topography is nothing short of surreal. There are towering limestone and granite peaks, sweeping valleys, rice terraces, and even caves and waterfalls.
Note: While there is tremendous natural beauty, there is also a painful amount of trash on the side of the road at some points. I suspect waste management isn’t a well-developed public service in Ha Giang. In fact, we saw many piles of burning trash over the course of the journey.
The road itself was completed in 1965 after 11 years of construction. (Learn about the construction HERE). But it wasn’t on the map for tourism until the early 2000s, and traffic didn’t really take off until the late 2010s with the rise of “easy rider” tours (according to our guide.) Now, the Ha Giang Loop is a popular experience amongst adventure travelers and backpackers. And let me say, it’s worth the hype.
Fast fire facts on our tour:
- It was $269 USD per person (total steal if you ask me!)
- It included: bus fares in and out of Ha Giang, accommodations, meals, entry fees, the easy rider, and rain gear.
- It didn’t include: extra drinks and snacks.
- It was guaranteed small group, and ours happened to have 8.
- There was a lead English-speaking guide who provided key facts and insights along the way.
- We were able to leave our big bags at the hostel in Ha Giang, and brought just a backpack for the tour.
- We went in January, which is the coldest and often foggiest time of year. There was both cold and fog over the 4 days. But neither was unbearable and there were still awesome vistas to be had.
I’ll do another post on the ins and outs of how to choose a tour, what to pack, and how to prepare. But now, here’s a rundown of my experience.
An In-Depth Review of Ha Giang Epic Tour 4 day/4night Ha Giang Loop Tour
Step 1: Getting There…
A group of buzzing travelers met at Cheers Hostel in Hanoi in the Old Quarter at 7pm. We got a brief rundown of the journey ahead and shot the breeze for an hour before a shuttle bus scooped us and headed to the bus station.
VIP sleeper buses with comfy bed capsules adorned with power outlets and handy lights are all the rage amongst travelers. We, however, weren’t VIPs. Our bus had 3 beds width wise, 2 beds height wise, and 6 (ish) length wise. Each bed was just under 6 feet long and no more than 2 feet wide and came with a little TV, a little light, blanket, pillow, and curtains — a sleeping situation unkind to claustrophobia.
I was a bottom bunk on the right side of the bus, and I attempted to get cozy as the bus sped away at 9:15pm. The air conditioning must have been blasting on the “Arctic Freeze” setting, but I managed to curl into a ball that was some semblance of comfortable. Either the road was windy or the driver just watched The Fast and the Furious, because the bus was in a constant state of sideways motion.
I dozed in and out of a Tylenol PM induced slumber until someone screamed “HA GIANG” at 3:30am. In a haze, I shoveled my way out of the bus and into Cozy Hostel where we all given beds for a couple hours of snoozing. Three hours in a 8-person dorm room was a kind of reminder of why my hostel days are a thing of the past. A guy decided to repack his bag at 5am. Constant coughing and movement. I couldn’t help but ponder when the sheets had last been washed. The things you care about when you’re 30 vs 22 I suppose.
Tip: If I were to do it again, I would get a day bus from Hanoi and book a private room for the night. The sleeper bus was a fun, unique experience and saved time. But I entered the first day totally wrecked from the poor night’s sleep.
Ha Giang Loop Day 1: Ha Giang to Dong Van, 145km
Jeremy and I woke up and headed down for coffee and a breakfast buffet with eggs, fried rice, toast, fruit, and veggies. We met our group of 8, which consisted of me and Jeremy, 2 girls from Norway, 1 girl from London, and 3 girls from Scotland who were on their gap year between high school and uni.
We gathered around our lead guide, Tuong, and went over the journey and what to expect before meeting our easy riders, dawning our rain gear, and zooming off.
Unbridled excitement and adrenaline coupled with sleepless delirium had my skin prickling with elation. Being on the back of a bike made me feel like I was part of the scenery, not just an observer. We sped up and down mountains and in and out of clouds. One minute there’d be zero visibility with split-pea soup level fog. The next a wild vista of a lush valley peppered with rice terraces, cultivated land, and little homes would appear. Thrilling is an understatement,
Stop 1: Lung Tam Hemp Weaving Village
Hemp weaving has been practiced by the H’Mong people in northern Vietnam for centuries. The process involves harvesting the hemp, drying it and processing it into fibers, weaving it on a wooden frame, then boiling it in ash water and beeswax to achieve a soft linen. Tuong told us that these women have been mastering the process their whole lives, and usually make less than $2usd a day.
There was a little store on site. Surprisingly, it seemed like the H’Mong women cared far more about their tasks at hand than making a sale. I bought a little bag for 150,000 VND/6USD which I immediately proceeded to drop in the mud…. classic Katie.
Stop 2: Lunch
Lunch awaited us at a local restaurant nearby. The spread was served family style, with a beef dish, marinated tofu, cabbage salad, spring rolls, fries, fried chicken, and rice. It was delightful, and I particularly enjoyed the spring rolls.
Stop 3: A Village in the Mountains
We rode for 2 hours up and down mountains with dense fog at every ascent and jaw-dropping scenery revealing itself at every descent. Unfortunately, the Chin Khoanh Pass, which is one of the most iconic passages with switch back roads overlooking rice terrace, was in a dense cloud bank at the time of our passage. But hey, that’s travel for ya!
The road got narrower and more precarious and we drove towards a remote village nestled in the mountain. I had a white knuckle grip on the back of the bike as we weaved passed cows, dodged pot holes, and somehow managed to stay on the winding path.
Tuong told us that 20 families lived there. Yet, the only residents seemed to be chickens and three adorable puppies. The people make around 10,000 VND a day (which is less than $.50usd), and have to walk many kilometers just to get water during the dry season. The government provides free schooling to ethic minorities in the Ha Giang region. And while education is valued, many children have to start working early to help put food on the table. Tuong told us that he himself had to start working at the age of 8 to help provide for his younger brother and sister.
After wandering through the village, we hopped back on the bikes and began the precarious ride down. It was just after 3:30pm, and school must have gotten out because there were kids diligently walking up and down the mountain. Most of them without an adult. There were children who couldn’t have been older than 5 years old guiding 3 year olds. A concept that is totally crazy by my western standards of “normal”. But something that is totally “normal” in the Ha Giang region.
One member of the group had a snafu getting down the mountain– the bike tipped over because the engine was having issues. Her driver hit the engine with a rock to get it back into place, and we celebrated as they rejoined the group at the bottom of the mountain.
There’s one big thing I’ve learned about Vietnamese people. They do what they have to do and are incredibly resourceful. No mechanic is coming to a remote mountain road to fix your bike. It’s up to you to fix it yourself. (Another reason I wouldn’t drive the loop on my own!)
The Final Push to Dong Van Golden Hotel
The final 2 hour push seemed like a race against the sun. Beautiful landscapes helped mediate the ache of sitting on a bike for 7 hours in chilly conditions. We finally arrived to the hotel just after 5:30pm
The room exceeded expectations with a huge window, comfy bed, modern shower, and cozy vibes. We had to time to shower and rest before a hot pot feast was served. There were two other small group tours staying at the hotel, and each table got a huge hot pot with sweet potatoes, corn, noodles, meats, and all types of veggies to add in.
We were also introduced to the ever famous “happy water”, which is a local corn wine. It’s customary for hosts to give guests shots of this potent alcohol. But be careful… I’ve read many a tale of the woes of riding on the back of a motorbike after a night of one too many happy water shots.
Soon after, I fell into a delightfully deep sleep, excited for the adventures to come.
Day 2: Exploring the North– Lung Cu and Nho Que River, 100km
The day began with coffee and a breakfast of eggs and bread. Well-rested, the squad eagerly got into rain gear and headed towards Nho Que River.
The scenery along the Ma Pi Leng Pass held some of the most amazing vistas I’ve ever seen. The narrow road was carved along the curvature of the mountains with hardly any barrier between us and a drop of doom at some points. Lush greenery contrasted dark grey rocks jutting up along the mountain side. A vibrant teal river meandered along the valley below. Low hanging clouds created an aura of moodiness to tie it all together. It was the type of scenery that has even the best cameras shaking in their boots at the prospect of properly capturing the beauty.
Stop 1: Nho Que River
We parked the bikes, hopped on a trolley, and walk a couple hundred meters to a boat. The Nho Que River starts in China, and flows through northeastern Vietnam. The steep surrounding mountains were striking, and the water had a lovely teal tone. While pretty, the boat ride itself wasn’t anything to write home about. The journey there and back however, was a highlight of the entire 4 day Ha Giang Loop tour.
Lunch Break
We headed back to the hotel for a lunch of fried rice with beef and egg to reenergize for the second half of the day.
Stop 2: Lung Cu Flag Tower and the Chinese Boarder
The squad headed north towards the Chinese border. We cruised in and out of cloud banks, and I enjoyed the sights along the way. There were cows, a little kid hacking at a log with a machete, H’Mong women carrying various items on their backs, and even a massive dead pig being transported on a motorbike.
We pulled into the Lung Cu Flag Tower, which is a landmark representing the independence and unity of Vietnam. It was built in 1887 to mark the northern most point of the country, and was officially named a cultural heritage site of Vietnam in 1994. We were greeted at the bottom by some kids giving us certain gestures suggesting they might not love all the tourists coming through…
After visiting the tour, we hopped back on the bikes and headed on a tumultuous road and through a tiny village to a viewpoint where we could see a long fence separating China and Vietnam. In the photo below, I’m on the Vietnam side and my driver is on the Chinese side.
We jetted back to the hotel and enjoyed another delicious spread before hitting the hay.
Day 3: From Dong Van to Du Gia Village, 111km
We packed up our bags, ate another breakfast of eggs and bread, and began the journey to Du Gia Village. Our rain dance must have worked, because it was the warmest, clearest day of the experience.
The journey was full of heart stopping views. Towering peaks. Switchback roads. Tiered rice paddies. Vibrant green gardens. Locals walking. The type of scenery that makes you feel humbled by the grandness of nature wondering how you deserve to exist in a world so beautiful.
There was a coffee break, a few photo breaks, and a lunch break. Lunch was another family-style Vietnamese spread with spring rolls, veggies, fritters, cucumbers, a beef stir fry, and french fries. Funnily enough, nearly every meal had french fries. Something tells me they aren’t too common on the Ha Giang dinner table…
Arriving at the Cheers Du Gia Homestay.
Just before 3pm we arrived at the Cheers Du Gia Homestay. Three tour groups were staying there, and we each had our own little stilted building. Our guide explained that this is a Thai style home, which was originally designed when tigers were a common predator. The bottom level was open air with tables, a bar, and bathrooms. The top level had 8(ish) bedrooms around a communal sitting space. Our room was cozy with a double bed and little lamp. It wasn’t totally walled in, so we had a bug net for the evening. The cutest little kitten developed a fondness for Jeremy, and took a nap on his chest for an hour.
A stop at Du Gia Waterfall
Next it was time to dawn our swimsuits for a trip to Du Gia waterfall. The water was freezing, but deliberate cold exposure is all the rage these days so I diligently swam around for 10 minutes. Some souls were brave (or stupid) enough to do a big jump from the hill.
Dinner and Party Time!
Nearly every Ha Giang loop tour you’ll find has a party on the final night. It involves a massive spread of food and bottles full of happy water followed with dancing and karaoke. Below is a video of our tour guide leading the classic way to cheers in Vietnam!
It was fun dancing around, and some of our easy riders busted out their best moves. But it was an evening where I felt my age. Most of the people were in the 18-23 year old range and ready to party. I, however, had no desire to be even a smidgen hung over for the final day of bike riding. Luckily, I’m a professional sober partier from my years of working at mitzvahs. And even luckier, things had to shut down at 10pm.
Day 4: Returning to Ha Giang, 129km
After a breakfast of Vietnamese pancakes, we put on our rain gear one last time and made tracks towards Ha Giang. We rode through a frenetic street market. Up and down more mountains. And through tiny villages with working locals and laughing kids.
It was the roughest road conditions we faced on the 4 day Ha Giang loop tour. There were loads of potholes and long stretches where pavement gave way to mud and gravel.
Up until this day, our lead guide did a fantastic job in planning our route so we rarely ran into other motorbike tours. It helped give the illusion that we were 8 intrepid travelers on this incredible journey very few people get to have. This day, however, the 3 groups that were at the homestay were all on the exact same route and overlooks and stops often overlapped. It cut into the magic of it all for me.
Impressive landscapes were still abundant and I still enjoyed the day. But it was the least memorable day of the 4.
There was one final lunch with morning glory, spring rolls, tofu, pumpkin, and mixed veggies that we all enjoyed whilst sharing photos from the journey.
Saying Goodbye.
The squad rolled into Cozy Hostel at 3:15pm, marking the end of our Ha Giang loop journey.
It was one of those experiences that will stay with me for years to come. The scenery, people, and glimpse at a life so jarringly different from my own was grounding. Western culture is dominated by things and status with a consume, consume, consume mentality. Culture among Ha Giang ethnic groups is dominated by community, with a strong emphasis on relationships and traditions.
I live in extreme excess. Knowing that the cash and value of the items sitting my backpack matched 10 years worth of wages for some Ha Giang residents gave me crippling guilt. The plight of privilege is oxymoronic, to say the least. (Check out my reflections on my experiences in Africa HERE. Different continent, similar emotions.)
I never take my privileges for granted. I use them to experience other cultures so that I can be a more empathetic and understanding citizen of the world. And I have a deep, intense gratitude for everything I have and everything I am able to do.
The Ha Giang loop 4 day tour with Ha Giang Epic Tour was an incredible travel experience that I couldn’t recommend more!
Cheers to learning new things, experiencing the world, and embracing life.
