Koh Chang: Paradise Found?

Koh Chang, the second largest island in Thailand, is home to beautiful beaches, dense jungle, and island hopping opportunities. During the peak season from November to February, international and domestic tourists flock to the reasonably priced resorts and bungalows to soak up the sun and have some fun.

From May to September, things are a little different.

The island is pummeled with rain nearly every day (see graph below), with an occasion visit from the sun.

Who in their right minds would travel to Koh Chang during such conditions?

Me!

It’s beautifully bizarre in all the best ways.

The island feels post-apocalyptic. Restaurants are shut down, tour offices are closed, and stray dogs roam the roads with occasional squads of chickens clucking past. A few cars and motor bikes whiz along the main drag, mostly being driven by locals. I always get a kick out of seeing toddlers standing on the front of bike while mom or dad drives—something that would make the headlines of a local newspaper in the United States.

Strolling along the beach is like observing one of those “the world after humans” specials. Looming resorts with infinity pools and private cabanas are completely empty. The “jungle chic” foliage hasn’t been tamed in quite some time. There are a couple of open bars, but the workers seem to be the only attendees. Without beachgoers, the shoreline is being reclaimed by nature. Mollusks, hermit crabs, and perfectly preserved shells are sprawled about.  I encounter one woman selling seashell jewelry. To whom? Beats me.

In the background are looming mountains being hugged with rings of mist. The dense green jungle looks ominous against the gray sky. A few sprinkles of rain begin to come down, threatening to be the next deluge.

It feels like the island has been sleeping for years. But the headline “Koh Chang bookings hit 90%” was published in the Bangkok Post just last October. My imagination can’t concoct the scene of full beaches with loud music and happy vacationers enjoying 11am buckets of beer.

Some might look at the off season as a paradise lost. I see it as a paradise found.

In these months of heavy rain and light tourism, there’s a sense of recovery and rejuvenation, as if the island is healing itself from the damage peak season brings. I’m an observer with both my hands in my pocket. Curiously inspecting my surroundings. Soaking in the details of the movement and stillness around me.  

And then it hit me.

I am a kindred spirit with Koh Chang.

I too am in my off season. I too am recovering and rejuvenating.  My “peak season” of pursuing a dance career lasted 7 years. While it was exciting, enriching, and fulfilling, the grind and nature of the industry slowly took its toll.

During these rainy months, Koh Chang is rebuilding itself. Just like me.

You need a bit of rain to grow. Koh Chang and myself are doing just that.