I cruised along the Amazon in November, 2023. Amongst all the hubbub of life, I forget to post this review of an epic Manaus day tour. Enjoy!
My curiosity for the Amazon started in the 2nd grade. It was “Amazon Week”, and the class of 15 or so 8 year olds were assigned the task of transforming the room into a jungle escape. Plush toucans graced the ceiling. Creepy crawlies were strewn across the ground. Fake greenery coated our cubbies. And a CD player spit out sounds of the rainforest.
Who would have guessed that 22 years later I’d actually be visiting the Amazon region…. on a cruise ship! Due to a historic draught, the itinerary had to be changed, resulting in a double overnight in Manaus, the capital of the Amazonias region.
I scouted out the longest, most immersive Manaus day tour I could find, and came across THIS 12 hour gem for $106usd…. SOLD! (Tip: Sent Milton a message on Whatsapp to book directly to keep the money local! I regretfully didn’t do this, but someone else in my group did.) And it was a day for the books.
Let’s dive in my 12 hour Manaus day tour in the Amazon!
Part 1: Canoeing Down the River
After an hour drive out of Manaus, we met up with our local guide, Fabian. He was no taller than 5’ 1”, boasting an Amazon Tours shirt and athletic shorts. He wasn’t over-the-top with a joking, showy energy that some tour guides have. Rather, he had a calm confidence with a friendly, yet stoic presence that exuded experience. He’s the type of person that unknowingly has you hanging on every single word because you get a sense that every sentence matters.
We piled into his canoe and jetted down the river. Fabian pointed up to the tree line where the water levels hit during the wet season. A few homes were hidden among the trees, situated up on stilts. When the water levels rise, animals look for news homes. One time his neighbor found a 20 foot long anaconda snooping around, eyeing off the family dog as a meal.
An hourish later and Fabian pulled over to what seemed like the middle of nowhere.
“Everyone out! Time for our walk!”
Part 2: Jungle Hike
We filed out of the canoe and everyone started liberally spritzing on bug spray to every inch of exposed skin. Fabian, in this shorts and short sleeves, gave a little chuckle. I suppose the risk of getting bit by a malaria-riddled mosquito at 11am in an extremely dry patch of jungle is low.
The group walked softly and quietly through the jungle, as instructed by Fabian, keeping our eyes and ears peeled for wildlife. Within 10 minutes a family of little monkeys rustled through the treetops. They leaped across the branches, scavenging for food.
As the journey continued, Fabian would frequently hold up his hand, indicating us to stop. We’d stand there in silence, and sure enough, there would be something to see. Hundreds of bullet ants swarming in lines. A beautiful bug that has pee that’ll burn you. A handful of brightly colored birds. Fabian pointed out rubber, mahogany, and acai trees, and he explained that the beautiful hanging vines are actually parasites—they engulf trees to snag their water and nutrients.
Fabian’s connection to the jungle was staggering. He knew exactly where to step and what to look for with a deep knowledge of the life around him. In the United States, there’s a disconnect between us and nature. Sure, we might visit the mountains and camp out for a few nights. But at the end of the day, we are still living next to nature, not with it.
Two hours later and we were back at the canoe to head off to the next portion of the Manaus day tour.
Part 3: Swimming with the Pink Dolphins
We pulled up to a floating house of sorts, and immediately saw pink dolphins bopping around. Amazon pink river dolphins are the largest fresh water dolphins, and adults can get up to 9 feet long and weigh 400 pounds. Legend has it that these striking creatures shape shift at night into men dawning dapper clothing and top hats (to cover the blow holes of course.) They go to gatherings to seduce the loveliest women and impregnate them. This story was and is still used to explain scandalous pregnancies, and some tribes call a fatherless child “a child of the boto.”
I assumed the pink color was due to the consumption of carotenoid pigments, like flamingos. However, some Googling has revealed that diet is only a small part of the story, and that scientists aren’t 100% certain. Some researchers believe it’s a result of social behavior— fighting leads to scar tissue that eventually turns pink (the most common answer). Others say it’s related to skin thickness, which impacts how much blood you see.
Before getting up close and personal with them, it was time for lunch. Fresh fish, rice, and a casava flour dish of sorts were served. Simple, filling, and super tasty!
“Who wants to swim with the dolphins?!”
A year ago, I would have put my foot down and politely declined the experience.
Animal tourism that involves any type of contact always raises red flags. It was clear what was happening: they feed this family of dolphins fish so that tourists can swim with the gentle giants and get those ever coveted “I swam with pink dolphins in the Amazon!!!” photos. (Get my take on how to find an ethical elephant experience in Thailand HERE).
Here’s the thing. The pink dolphin population in the Amazon is declining due to water pollution and over fishing. These particular dolphins were being taken care of, fed, and tended too, and have called that area of water home for nearly a decade. Not only are the locals incredibly in touch with nature, but keeping the dolphins healthy directly links to tourism dollars.
Do I wish environmental degradation wasn’t happening that the pink dolphins could thrive on their own? Absolutely. But sometimes it’s about supporting the next best thing. And selfishly, the experience was incredible.
Part 4: Piranha Fishing
We loaded back into the boat and headed to a calm spot for the next activity: piranha fishing.
The equipment was simple. Long sticks with fishing lines. Fabian chopped up a fish to put on the hooks as bait, we cast our lines, and waited.
There are more than 30 species of piranha in the Amazon, and it turns out they aren’t the blood crazed human-killers Hollywood makes them out to be. Most have an omnivore diet of seeds, insects, snails, weeds, and whatever they can scavenge. In fact, certain species eat purely vegetarian diets. Piranhas are skilled hunters, and target prey that’s smaller and less likely to win the fight– AKA not humans.
However, a small handful of piranha attacks do happen every year. In 2023, 8 tourists were left bloody and battered because they were wading in water that was peppered with food discarded from upstream restaurants. And there are a few deaths each year. But such incidents are rare. Piranhas have incredible jaw power and razor sharp teeth, and if they were inclined towards unprovoked attacks it would be a huge issue. But they don’t, so no reason to be afraid!
Our boat collectively caught 11, and yours truly caught 1! The slippery devils kept sneaking my bait without me noticing. I don’t think I’m cut out to be a fisher, but I enjoyed the experience.
Part 5: Waiting for Sundown
We bopped around as magic hour hit, chit chatting to pass time as the sun went down. Fabian gave some interesting insights into how the land has evolved in the past few decades.
He said that the land used to be a free for all. Tribes would fight against tribes, and developers fought against everybody. In this 80s, the government created a constitution that recognized “Indigenous people as the first and natural owners of the land and guarantees their right to land.” The state was required to demarcate land back to tribes, giving them full power over the land.
Research has found that assigning such property rights directly leads to less deforestation. However, greed finds a way. President Bosonaro has been trying to curb the protection of indigenous ownership, and there is still wide scale deforestation and land grabbers are devastating the land. (Read about it HERE!)
The Amazon plays a crucial role global carbon and water cycles. It stores 150-200 billion tons of carbon, and releases 20 billion tons of water into he atmosphere per day. Those mahogany desks might be nice, but the environment of the globe seems a bit more important… if you ask me.
Part 6: Searching for Caiman
Black caiman are in the Alligatoridae family, and they are endemic to south and central America. These bad boys can get up to 17 feet long and 800 lbs, and they live in wetlands and lakes with slow moving water and dense vegetation.
Fabian strapped on a headlamp, and looked along the shoreline for shining eyes. When he spotted them, he’d cut the motor, grab an oar, and slowly try to creep up on them. His goal was to snag a little one to show us, and he even got out of the boat and waded through the water. He didn’t catch one, but we did see a couple little guys fairly close up.
Part 7: Heading Back to Manaus
We rode back to land, and had one last wildlife spotting before hopping in a car to ride back to Manaus…. a tarantula.
