As a kid, milk was a big deal.
“Got Milk?” was the motto of the 90s. It seemed like every athlete and super star was boasting an iconic milk mustache—if I drink milk… I can grow fast and strong too! I’d have milk in my cereal in the morning, a milk box for lunch, and occasionally ice cream after dinner, which is basically a glass of milk.
As I grew up, I grew out of milk. Mainstream media started questioning the growth hormones pumped into the cows. Health nuts began spewing out allegations like “gut inflammation!” and “acne breakouts!” And when oats, pistachios, walnuts, and almonds can be made into milk-like alternatives, why bother with the real deal? Macadamia production produces less methane than cows, after all.
But then I got to Hokkaido, Japan.
Hokkaido is the second largest island in Japan located on the northern most end of the country. Tourists, domestic and international alike, flock to the region for world class skiing, peaceful onsens, and stunning national parks. The island is also famous for it’s dairy cows, which produce top-tier milk.
Hokkaido dairy has subtle notes of vanilla with a rich, silky texture that coats the mouth. It tastes fresh, pure, and clean—three characteristics that are consistent with most Japanese food I’ve had the pleasure of eating in Japan. Good milk makes for stellar milk based products, and Hokkaido ice cream, cheese, and butter is considered the crème de la crème.
But what makes Hokkaido dairy so special?
Obviously, I had to do a deep dive….
1. The Climate and Air Quality
Hokkaido has a cool, dry climate year round that’s ideal for optimal milk production. Dairy cows can start experiencing heat stress at 72°F with 50% humidity, which leads to decreased milk production and pregnancy rates, and an increased risk of disease, lameness, and even death. Temperatures in Hokkaido rarely exceed 80°F with very low humidity rates, which means a very low risk of heat stress.
Like excessive heat, air pollution can lead to a decrease in milk production and increase in mortality rates in dairy cows. Hokkaido generally has good air quality with AQI well below 50 (1 to 50 is considered “good”.)
Clean air and comfortable temperatures translate to happy cows and consistent milk production.
2. Diet
A dairy cow’s diet significantly impacts the taste and nutritional quality of milk. THIS STUDY found that pasture feeding (AKA grass fed) correlates with higher levels of omega-3s, vaccenic acid, CLA, and ß-carotene (all of which apparently are good things to have in milk.) THIS STUDY dives into how feed impacts flavor, and THIS ONE chats about how good quality feed leads to more milk production and a healthier microbial population.
Hokkaido dairy cows have a top tier diet of grass from the land as well as self-supplied feed from the dairy farmers that mixes the grass with grains. This natural, usually organic, diet leads to nutrient-packed, delicious-tasting milk.
The research on the impact of diet on milk quality and flavor is extensive. I don’t have the time nor desire to comb through it all, but I feel comfortable concluding that what a dairy cow eats directly impacts the milk.
3. Living Conditions
Dairy cows, like most living creatures, experience spikes in cortisol levels when faced with stressful living conditions. Prolonged cortisol spikes cause can lead to decreased milk production and reproduction rates. If the short term stress continues into chronic stress, dairy cows can experience inflammation which makes them prone to various infectious and metabolic diseases. Plus, it can make the milk taste funky.
Cramped living conditions, uncomfortable flooring and bedding, and big changes can all be culprits of said stress.
Hokkaido dairy farmers strive to provide a relaxing, stress-free living environment for their cows. They give them plenty of room to roam, comfortable places to sleep, and some will even brush their cows everyday.
Great living conditions is also a key factor in what makes wagyu so darn tasty. You can check out my deep dive on it HERE!
After spending a few hours sifting through articles on dairy cows, I feel like we can conclude that cool clean air, a good diet, and minimal stress living conditions lead to optimal milk production and quality.
Dairy farms in Hokkaido check all these boxes.
But I can hear you asking… “But Katie… does it really taste that much better?!?!”
I’ll admit it. I didn’t sip on a tall cool glass of fresh Hokkaido milk. But I have enjoyed several Hokkaido soft serves, cheesecake, creampuffs, and a few other Hokkaido dairy based treats. And they have all been udderly delicious. The flavors are crisp, clean, and undoubtedly fresh.
But here at The Frugal Foodies, we are painfully analytical. Would all of these treats tasted just as good if made with imported dairy? It’s hard to say. But you better believe I’ll keep on noshing on Hokkaido dairy treats whilst in Japan.
